Imaginings from a Devoted Metal Bender

A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Faceted Shapes%3A Round

Stones and their unique shape tend to be the “fun” part of designing jewelry. It’s all about finding a stone that suits your hand shape accompanied by the perfect metal. Shapes of stones are as varied as metals we’ve discussed, and there are several options within each shape for the perfect stone. For now, we’re focusing on some of the most popular engagement ring stone shapes.

With a lack of corners making it less likely to be chipped in the mounting, it’s no wonder that round stones are widely popular. A round shape truly looks good on all hand shapes and is customizable for each client and their wants. When it comes light refraction, the round brilliant stone cut returns an exceptional amount of light. Round shaped stones can take on many unique forms depending on how they’re cut. 

The princess cut, technically named the square modified brilliant, is a square shape with sharp corners. This first appeared for general sale between 1980 and 1981. This is known as a relatively new shape in the world of diamonds, and this cut is considered to be modern and contemporary.

Ovals, a modified version of the round brilliant, has a lot of the same light and color return that is seen in the round stone. It can often give the illusion of a larger size at the same carat weight as a round stone. When thinking about an oval, a well cut one is important. If you have insufficient depth to the stone, it can cause a “bow tie effect.” This is categorized by a dark patch with little reflection which occurs when light doesn’t bounce into the middle of the diamond because of how the stone was cut. In these cases, it’s imperative to find a stone cutter who knows exactly how to handle precious stones to cut them properly. 

If you have an idea of a round or oval cut that you’d like to try out, we’re happy to walk you through shapes and options. Every stone is unique just like our customers, so let’s work on a ring of your dreams!

Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Stone Cuts

The next step to jewelry is picking out stones and learning the different cuts. With each cut, light refracts through the stone differently and one stone can have multiple looks. Many cuts come down to a preference of style. First on the list is understanding the difference between Cabochon and Faceted stones.  

A Cabochon is one of the earliest stone cuts developed and dates back to the middle ages. It has a flat bottom and rises evenly on all sides. It also comes in a variety of shapes including oval, square, round, rectangular, and rose cut.

This specific Cabochon cut can be used with any stone, but it works best with opaque stones that have natural patterns like Jasper. The smooth shape of this cut wears well over long periods of time, and a bezel setting will provide an ample amount of security for it to stay in place. The Cabochons were traditionally used in men’s rings as they are valued by active people who like low fuss and minimal upkeep.

Black Star Diopside Men's Ring

Black Star Diopside Men's Ring

Rose Cut Green Onyx Stud Earrings

Rose Cut Green Onyx Stud Earrings

Red Creek Jasper Pendant

Red Creek Jasper Pendant

Switching gears, we now come to faceted stones! These were originally developed during the late Renaissance Period when geometry was being used to come up with ways to cut flats into stones that would reflect light the most. Ingenious, right?

Faceted cuts can be used with any stone, like Cabochons, but they look best with translucent stones with the least number of flaws. When it comes to this cut, there are absolutely thousands of different stone designs. Many of these are optimized for the highest possible reflection so the natural brilliance of the stone can be seen.

White Sapphire Scroll Engagement Ring

White Sapphire Scroll Engagement Ring - Front

White Sapphire Scroll Engagement Ring - Side

Typically, faceted stones have a flat, polished surface called a table at the top, a midpoint called the girdle, and bottom facet that comes to a fine point called a pavilion. These stones are usually held with a prong mounting which will need to be maintained about every 5-10 years. It’s a fantastically beautiful stone cut and the upkeep is minimal!

Many gemstones are machine-cut in quantity in either India or China, but there are also custom lapidarists that will take each stone and individually cut hand-selected stone slabs into gemstones!

White Sapphire Scroll Engagement Ring

Custom Hexagonal White Sapphire, courtesy of Doug Menadue, Bespoke Gems

Custom 14K White Gold Engagement Ring featuring Hexagonal White Sapphire

If you’re curious about specific cuts of stones, we’re all about showing, teaching, and empowering our clients in their choice. Let us walk you through the differences!



Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Stone Origins

As we’ve gone through different metals, we’ve learned about hardness, durability, properties, and color. The next part in understanding jewelry comes to stones. Diamonds, rose quartz, garnet, turquoise, and many more are all available for jewelry and come with their own unique shapes and colors. But to start us off on this new journey, it should be understood where stones come from. There are natural, laboratory grown, and man-made stones available to jewelers which are all fairly widely accepted and used.

Natural minerals are formed in the crust of the earth over thousands of years. With the correct ingredients, pressure, and heat, a mineral will crystallize. These crystallized minerals are harvested or mined all around the world through various methods including open pit mining, underground mining, river wash mining, and open sea mining. Diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds are all considered to be precious stones. Although beautiful, the harvesting and mining of these and other natural minerals has a colorful past with some unethical twists and turns that more individuals are now considering when buying jewelry. 

Laboratory grown, or synthetic, stones are also widely available. Starting with sapphires and rubies, stones have been grown in a lab since the late 1800s. At a fraction of the price of natural stones (and at a much higher quality), lab grown stones are chemically identical to natural gems. Additionally, synthetic stones are far more ethically made and harvested than their natural cousins. Another plus is these stones can be cut specifically and can be curated to enhance the refraction of light. 

Lastly, man-made, stones are made to look like natural stones but do not chemically match the stones they replicate. These imitations often come in colors and combinations not found in nature like cubic zirconia, opal, spinel, and multiple others. They usually are resin or epoxy based while tending to be a little softer than lab grown or natural minerals. 

Stones and where they come from are important to discuss when choosing the style, color, and preference you’re seeking. Seeing how a sapphire looks in a specific setting compared to a diamond can help the decision making process as well as educate on the best stone for your lifestyle.

Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Color and Hardness

There are options everywhere and jewelry is no exception! In our understanding of jewelry, color and hardness of metals needs to be carefully selected. 

Color

There are a plethora of color options in metals. Ask yourself, “Does the color of this metal suit their skin tone?” Certain colors, like rose gold, are beautiful in pictures but can be the same color as some skin types. Pay attention to the colors that best stand out when worn. Another point to consider is your person’s lifestyle. Do they need a metal color that will require extra help in staying beautiful and shiny? Many 14k white gold pieces are rhodium plated. This treatment has to be reapplied every few years while palladium white gold is less upkeep. Depending on the person, a piece that needs upkeep every so often may not be as desirable as one with little to no upkeep. 

Hardness and Wearability

Time to think of durability, hardness, and wearability! When choosing your perfect metal, it’s good to think of resistance to bumps and scrapes.

In order of hardness:

  • 10K white gold, yellow gold, rose gold
  • Platinum
  • 14K white gold, yellow gold, rose gold
  • 18K white gold, yellow gold, rose gold
  •  Silver

Sterling silver and rose gold both have high copper content. They have reactions to the environment and to chemicals that they come into contact with, and sterling silver can tarnish and turn dark because of this. Rose gold can lose the lovely pink color associated with it and fade to a yellowish gold over time.

Platinum is a harder metal and loses very little mass to wear and tear over years of use. This is great news for someone who may want a little less upkeep on their jewelry. Finishes in platinum tend to be more durable because of the metal’s hardness.

If you’re choosing between gold and silver options, both metals need periodic maintenance by a jeweler to check certain prongs are strong and protecting the stones. Finishes in both gold and silver tend to show more wear over the years.

We’d be more than happy to walk through metal options with you in our studio where you can determine the best color for your skin as well as what kind of upkeep you’re wanting. Let us know how we can make jewelry buying a little easier on you.

Gena Smith
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10 Best Loved Designs Under $30


Need holiday gift ideas?

The holiday season has finally arrived, and like a lot of us, you may be scrambling to finish your gift shopping in a timely manner. Here's 10 of our most popular jewelry gift ideas for under $30, perfect for family White Elephant gift exchanges, workplace Secret Santas, or stocking stuffers!

Tiny Stud Earrings

These tiny daisy stud earrings are made of sterling silver and are perfect for anyone who loves floral jewelry and dainty pieces! At a 4 mm size, they're wonderful for second hole piercings.

Blue Opal Copper Ring

A lot of people love the color of copper and blue opals, and the two together makes a striking combination! This ring is perfect as a birthstone or promise ring.

Love this ring and think it would make a perfect gift? You can find it here.

Minimalist Midi Ring

This sterling silver minimalist band makes a wonderful midi or knuckle ring! It's available in a full range of sizes from US 2 to 16, so even if you want to wear it as a regular band, we've got you covered.

Silver Stacking Bands

Prefer silver jewelry? These sterling silver hammered bands are also perfect for stacking. You can mix and match with any of our gemstone stacking rings, or the copper version if you love mixed metal!

Love these bands? You can find them here.

Daisy Chain Ring

Another daisy-themed piece, we know, but who doesn't love these cheerful flowers? This band is perfect to wear on it's own, or with a gemstone stacking ring, and is the perfect dainty boho touch to your day!

Niobium Hoop Earrings

These tiny hoop earrings are a marvel in many ways! First, niobium is a hypoallergenic metal, making these perfect for anyone with metal sensitivities. Second, they come in a veritable rainbow of colors and third, they're easy to wear!

Love these earrings and want to create your own rainbow collection? You can find them here.

Copper Stacking Bands

Who doesn't love stacking rings? You can select your preferred number of bands to customize your set!

Love these bands and think they would be a perfect gift? You can find them here.

Dainty Rainbow Moonstone Ring

Know someone who loves rainbow moonstone? This dainty ring features a lovely 4 mm rainbow moonstone cabochon that will brighten anyone's day! It also pairs well with the silver stacking bands!

Cherry Blossom Stud Earrings

Another dainty floral favorite, these Cherry Blossom stud earrings are perfect for everyday wear! They're also the perfect size for second hole piercings and are a wonderful understated accent.

Love these earrings? You can find them here.

Tiny Blue Topaz Ring

Last but not least is this dainty blue topaz stacking ring! It's a perfect birthstone ring, or gift for anyone who just really loves the color blue.

If you'd like to see other gift suggestions for under $30, check out our Guide to Gifts Under $30 board on Pinterest!


Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Silver Part 2

As we continue to learn more about silver and its properties, it’s important to note that silver is a highly diverse metal with numerous kinds and uses. Below are just a few types of silver and how they’re used.


Sterling Silver

This is the most common silver alloy available. It consists of 92.5% Silver, and one or more metals comprise the other 7.5%. The alloy allows for harder and more durable jewelry. In our studio, copper makes up the 7.5% because it increases the hardness and lowers the overall melting temperature. 


Coin Silver

In the U.S., Coin Silver contains 90% silver and 10% copper. You don’t usually see coin silver used in jewelry. The history of the silver found is a coin is fascinating, so check this out if you’d like a little walk through history. 

Britannia Silver: this contains a minimum of 95.84% silver which makes it a more valuable alloy than sterling. However, this is rarely seen in jewelry as it is notably softer than sterling silver.

Mexican Silver: this refers to silver used as currency in Mexico (otherwise known as the peso of which there is a silver and paper version). Typically, Mexican Silver is comprised of 95% silver and 5% copper. This alloy is used more as currency than in jewelry. Silver jewelry made in Mexico is more commonly crafted from sterling silver.


Reticulation Silver

Lastly, this silver contains 80% silver and 20% copper. Most commonly it is used in art jewelry and jewelry fabrications.

There are multiple silver alloys used worldwide. For example, a South American alloy made of 80% silver won’t tarnish. Additionally, jewelry makers stamp silver pieces with a code for the alloy they used. If you were to look closely on the inside of your silver band, you may see certain numbers designating the specific alloy used. “925” indicates sterling silver, “958” indicates Britannia Silver, “900” is Coin Silver, and the list goes on!

When shopping for your silver jewelry, make sure to inspect the pieces carefully for a code so you know what you’re purchasing. If the stamped code isn’t in an obvious place, check on the clasps and posts for tiny stamps!

Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Silver Pt 1

When you’re working on adding pieces of jewelry to your collection, it’s a good idea to carefully consider your options. Ultimately, you’ll want something versatile, durable, and timeless.

If gold isn’t so much your thing, what other options do you have for jewelry? Several, actually! There’s a vast market of different metals that are perfect for your jewelry, and gold is just one of the options we’ve touched on. Next up is silver.

Silver is one of the most popular jewelry metals with a lengthy list of why. First off, its luster is one of its most outstanding features. Who can say no to that shine? Silver is also more abundant and less expensive than gold or platinum which makes it a great option for those who want quality without quite as hefty of a price tag.

Since silver conducts heat so well, it’s more difficult to work than gold. For this reason, many novice jewelry makers often learn how to solder on silver. Once they’ve gained control of their soldering technique on this highly conductive metal, controlling the heat on gold becomes easier. Smart thinking!

Unfortunately, sterling silver tarnishes easily. The term “tarnish” denotes a layer of oxidation that forms over some metals, including sterling silver, when they undergo chemical reactions. This can leave your jewelry lacking the brightness and charm you fell in love with.

If you want to reduce the amount of tarnish on your silver, care for them by placing them in protective pouches or containers. Also, soap and water goes a long way with a soft brush. It’s effective for many home jewelry care needs, and it can save you in a pinch! If you’re looking for extra care ideas for your jewelry, read our blog about it! 

Similarly to gold, silver is soft and easily damaged. Jewelry makers often alloy silver with harder metals, such as nickel or copper, to improve its durability! With these silver alloys, jewelers can make beautiful and strong pieces that are appropriate for daily wear without the risk of easy damage.  

Silver is a special metal to work with and wear, and we’re here to answer your questions or concerns about silver pieces. We love to show off all of our designs here on our website, and we’d be more than happy to discuss your custom made jewelry to give you the best selections!

Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Gold and its Different Colors

Through reading our other blog about gold and its properties, you may have a better idea of the plethora of gold options available to you. But just you wait, there’s more! In the world of gold jewelry buying, there are options for gold plated, gold-filled, and vermeil.


Gold Chart

Gold Plating is a small layer of solid gold applied to a base made of brass. The plating itself does not compose any measureable proportion of the products total weight. Actually, it’s estimated to be 0.05% or less of the metal product. Gold plating usually wears of rather quickly over time and exposes the brass base product. Unfortunately, it doesn’t stand up well to everyday chemicals.

Gold-filled jewelry is constructed in two or three layers. The metal core is jeweler’s brass, and a gold alloy is then bonded to one or both surfaces of the brass core with extended heat and pressure. Gold-filled is legally required to contain 5% or 1/20 gold by weight. This 5% is typically described by the karatage of the gold alloy. 14k gold-filled products are often identified as 14/20 gold-filled but 14kt gold-filled is acceptable! This treatment isn’t considered permanent, but it does last longer if properly cared for!

Vermeil (pronounced vehr-MAY) is a thicker level of gold plating over sterling silver rather than a base metal. But to truly qualify as Vermeil, the plating should be a minimum of 2.5 microns thick and always over sterling silver. Vermeil can be seen most often in historical jewelry from the early 1900s.

The last thing everyone should know about gold jewelry is the different colors and their meanings! Just like flowers, different colors of gold have different significance.

Gold can come in different colors based on different recipes of alloys (metal mixtures):

·         Yellow gold contains copper and silver and is typically associated with wealth and luxury

·         Rose or pink gold contains copper and is typically associated with love.

·         Green gold contains silver and sometimes cadmium and zinc and can be associated with renewal

·         White gold traditionally contains nickel, copper, and tin, and is associated with purity

·         Palladium white gold contains palladium and is typically associated with honesty

·         Blue gold contains iron and is typically associated with strength

14K Yellow Gold Forget Me Not Band

Picking out a piece of gold jewelry for yourself or a loved one can be intimidating, but with a little knowledge, it’s very fulfilling! Finding something that will last them a lifetime and live up to their dreams doesn’t have to be daunting. Our trained staff would be more than thrilled to talk through various choice, colors, and options for that special piece!


Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Gold

14K Yellow Gold Rose Ring
14K White Gold Rose Ring
14K Rose Gold Rose Ring

When it comes to making purchases, it’s up to the buyer to understand what they’re getting themselves into. But let’s be honest, the word gold can be a little misleading. How so? For starters, it can mean anything from the golden color to the material the jewelry is made from. The material could be either solid cold, gold filled, or gold plated. Gold also comes in different colors like white, yellow, rose, or green. On top of that, there’s a list of different karats of gold such as 24K gold, 18K gold, and so on.


14K Yellow, 14K Palladium White, and 14K Rose Gold Twist Bands

14K Rose, 14K Palladium White, and 14K Yellow Gold Square Bands

Carefully reading the description of what you’re buying online is especially important as the title alone may not always explain what you’re paying for. If the seller isn’t completely clear with what you’d be purchasing, don’t buy it! Let us help sort out some of the terminology so you can understand what all these terms mean!

Since 24K gold is too soft to wear as jewelry, it is typically mixed with other metals (alloyed) to increase the hardness and durability. The karat quality stamping, usually found inside or on the back of a gold piece of jewelry, tells you what proportion of gold are mixed in with other metals. A few of them are:

18K or 750: This signifies the contents are 75% gold, 25% other metals

14K or 585: This signifies the contents are 58% gold, 42% other metals

10K or 420: This signifies the contents are 42% gold and 58% other metals. However, ten karat gold is the lowest level allowed under the US law.

Jewelry which is made of higher karat gold is more yellow in color and slightly softer than gold jewelry made with lower karat gold. The remaining amount that isn’t gold may include copper, silver, zinc or other metals. It’s equally important to be aware of alloys especially if you are allergic to certain metals or have a high acid content in your body. Acid in the skin or in your environment can cause your jewelry to change colors and deteriorate over time. This sort of chemical wear can make your jewelry appear to be of poor quality when it’s actually not.


Gold jewelry pulls in all sorts of style and design choices! Because of its creative design and manufacture, designer jewelry may cost more than jewelry gold jewelry. However, having the designer’s name stamped inside will increase the value of that specific piece, and many designer pieces become highly sought after.

Lastly, be sure your item is clearly marked with both karat weight and the manufacturer. This is especially true when buying jewelry online!

Gold pieces make beautiful jewelry that will last a lifetime. We’re more than willing to answer questions or talk through your gold choices. If you’re curious to see our work with gold, let us know and we would be happy to show you our handiwork!

Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - Platinum

As we dive into learning more about noble metals and their properties, we want to take time to discuss each kind of metal and their benefits. First up is platinum which actually refers to an entire group of metals. The platinum family includes iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium, and ruthenium. While platinum is the one most abundant, the rest of the platinum family metals have jewelry uses. Platinum is hypoallergenic and excellent for people who are allergic to other metals.

When it comes to plating other metals, rhodium is frequently seen as a non-tarnishing option. Rhodium can be used in plating for white gold, silver, and other platinum group jewelry metals. On the other hand, palladium and iridium are commonly alloyed, or mixed in, with platinum or used alone to make jewelry pieces.

Marketing of different forms is used on platinum jewelry based on the amount of pure platinum in the piece itself. If a jewelry piece is marked as “900 platinum”, “900 pt”, “900 plat”, “pt 900”, or “900 plat 100 irid” this simply means the item is 90% platinum and 10% other metals.

The most common platinum alloys include 90% platinum and 10% iridium, or 95% platinum and 5% ruthenium. These alloys tend to be stronger due to the ruthenium. In the long run, the stronger alloy will hold up better and for longer.



When shopping, be sure the item is stamped with its metal content and manufacturer. This will ensure that you’re getting what you pay for instead of something that is barely platinum at all. Additionally, be sure the sales receipt has “platinum” written in the description. It’s worth noting you may be spending more initially because of the expert craftsmanship required to work with platinum as well as the higher overall cost of this family of metal and percentage of alloy.

If you decide to buy online, choose a payment option that will assist in reclaiming your money if there is any issue with the vendor or the product you receive. Precautionary methods are always the best option!


Platinum is a wonderful metal to work with, and we are always open to questions about metals you’re considering for your next piece of jewelry. Whether you’re interested in a quote or want to see examples of platinum in other works we’ve accomplished, we would be happy to educate you on your best options.

Gena Smith
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A Survivor's Guide to Jewelry Buying - About Metals

Learning About the Noble Metals

If you’re being honest, is the thought of picking out jewelry intimidating? Do you hear words like “clarity” or “rose gold” and feel a little anxious? You’re not alone! Jewelry buying can be a landscape full of uncertainties with a plethora of options. From platinum to gold, silver to copper, diamonds to sapphires, the options look overwhelming. It may seem as if the safest option is buying from a familiar name in jewelry where everybody else is shopping.  

We want to offer you the opportunity to purchase jewelry as unique as your love story. Ultimately, we want to put the power of jewelry buying into your hands so you can make informed decisions regarding pieces that last a lifetime. More than that, we want our customers to understand what they are looking for while confidently avoiding pitfalls along the way.

What’s our first step? Understanding the different kinds of metals and their properties.

What are noble metals?

These metals can be worked by hand (soldered, cut, and hammered). This malleability makes platinum, gold, and silver practical and smart choices for the jewelry industry. Titanium, cobalt, and tungsten carbide are sometimes used in Men’s wedding bands. However, these are not considered noble metals since they lack malleability.

Noble metals are known to resist oxidation and corrosion in moist air. In other words, they’re rust resistant. Additionally, they possess varying degrees of resistance to acids such as those found in cosmetics and lotions. This is good news for those who want their jewelry to last while enjoying the things they love.

Gold, silver, platinum, ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, iridium, and osmium are all considered noble metals. These are known for their properties mentioned above and they also make beautiful additions to jewelry whether you’re wanting a necklace, ring, or bracelet.

Sterling Silver Engagement Ring Set

14K Yellow, 14K Rose, and 14K White Gold Filigree Engagement Rings

Platinum Solitaire Engagement Ring

Moreover, gold, silver, and platinum have their own specific characteristics. These metals occur all around the globe, but they are not in large enough quantities to render them less valuable. Also, they’re considered precious metals and have been used as a form of currency throughout history. Different cultures consider these metals beautiful, sensuous, and glamorous which only increase their appeal.

More than anything, we enjoy the chance to work through questions with our customers. Communicating the art and science of jewelry is our number one goal, and we look forward to walking you through the different steps of jewelry buying as we give you a glimpse into our personable take on our craft.

Gena Smith
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Tips for Caring for your Moonkist Jewelry

Your jewelry can stay beautiful for years with gentle care, regular cleaning, and safe storage when not in use. We are always happy to help if you have a question, or an issue arises!
Gena Smith
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